Tips for keeping it clean

1 - When you apply cleaning solutions, give them time to dissolve and suspend the grit and grime. Don't just spray and wipe right away.

2 - Keep white nylon scrub pads on hand. Scrub pads are color-coded, with the white ones the most gentle so that they can be used on fiberglass tubs, Formica and other surfaces.

3 - A slick surface is harder for grit and grime to settle and stick on.

4 - Read all labels carefully, even ones on products you've used before. Manufacturers often reformulate their products.

5 - Never mix chlorine products (bleach, mildew remover, tile cleaner, powdered cleaners) with automatic dishwasher detergent or ammonia products (glass, floor and appliance cleaners) or acid (toilet bowl cleaners); they give off hazardous gases.

Tips from Cleaning Products for Pennies by Mary Chernesky and Judith A. Wakefield of the University of Florida Cooperative Extension Service .

 

Mildew Remover

Mildew is a live fungus growth, not dirt. Mildew spores are in the air, so permanent control is impossible.

Moisture control and disinfectants are your best means of control. Three disinfectant products kill and remove mildew: chlorine bleach, rubbing alcohol and trisodium phosphate.

Commercial mildew removers contain trisodium phosphate (Spic and Span) and/or chlorine bleach but cost a lot more than the basic ingredients. (Trisodium phosphate can be found at most paint and hardware stores.)

Rubbing alcohol is good for killing mildew on upholstered furniture, books, shoes, purses and luggage.

 

Cleaning Drains

Pour 1/2 cup baking soda down the drain followed by 1/2 cup white vinegar. Cover the drain for a few minutes while it sizzles and fizzles. Pour a quart or two of water down the drain to flush it.

The combination of baking soda and vinegar can break down fatty acids into soap and glycerin, allowing the clog to wash down the drain. This is safe to use with garbage disposals.

Do not use this method after a commercial drain opener has been used or is still present in standing water.

An alternative method: Pour 1/2 cup of salt and 1/2 cup baking soda down the drain, followed by 6 cups of boiling water. Let sit overnight, then flush with water.

 

 

April 21, 2001 - By Tyler Treadway of the Stuart News staff

Old-fashioned, homemade cleaners
outshine store-bought competition

When it comes to '50s sitcoms, maybe Father Knows Best; but Chris Procise says that when it comes to cleaning, it's more like 'Granny knew best.'

"Everything she used for cleaning - vinegar, baking soda, club soda, and ammonia - still work today," says Procise, the Family and Consumer Sciences Agent for the University of Florida - Martin County Cooperative Extension Service.

Granny made her own household cleaners because she had to - she was keeping house before the latest "spray-and-wipe" cleaners began glutting the grocery store aisles and the daytime airwaves. Procise says there are still good reasons to stick to her time-tested recipes: economics and the environment.

Simply put, making your own cleaners costs a lot less than buying them off the shelf. For example: Rubbing alcohol costs about 2 cents an ounce, vinegar about 3 cents an ounce and commercial window cleaner about 6 cents an ounce.

Old-fashioned, homemade cleaners also safer to both the user and the environment than most store varieties, Procise said.

To make their products work faster and better, manufacturers add some pretty serious chemicals to the basic ingredients Granny used, Procise says.

"People get sick after cleaning the house and wonder why," she said. "Well, the reason is the chemicals (in the cleaning products). Besides saving you money, what you're really saving when you use (homemade) cleaners is your lungs. You're also keeping all those chemicals from running off into the environment."

Because of the potentials for dangerous fumes, Procise says to make sure that store-bought cleaners aren't stored in the same cabinet as food.

"On the other hand, many of the products Granny used, including vinegar and baking soda, are foods," Procise says, "so you know they're safe."

With all those benefits to homemade cleaners, you figure there has to be a down side. Well, there is.

"There is a little more physical labor, a little more elbow grease involved in using Granny's cleaners," Procise admits. "But what's a little more scrubbing when you can breathe easier when you're done and save money in the process?"

More cleaning tips and information about homemade cleaners are available by calling Chris Procise (772) 288-5656 or by writing her care of the Martin County Cooperative Extension Service, 2614 S.E. Dixie Highway, Stuart, FL 34996-4007. Procise also is available to speak to community and civic groups.

- - - - - - - - - - -

Home Cookin': How to make &
use do-it-yourself cleansers

Multipurpose Cleaner (for floors, woodwork, walls and cupboards)

Combine 1/2 cup ammonia and 1 cup washing soda in a 1-gallon plastic jug. Add a couple of cups of warm water, cover and shake to dissolve the washing soda. Then add enough water to fill the jug.

Use 1/2 cup of this mixture in a bucket of water for large jobs or use full-strength in a spray bottle for appliances and tile.

(If your hands are sensitive, use rubber gloves when working with any solution containing washing soda.)

Toilet Bowl Cleaner

Remove waterline marks in the toilet bowl by pouring in 2 cups of white vinegar. Let soak overnight, then flush to rinse. If this doesn't do the job, rub the waterline mark with a wet pumice stone.

Fabric Softener

Unless you hang clothes out on a clothesline to dry, there's not much need to sue fabric softener. Much of the harshness of clothing is because of either hard water or detergent residue. (Overuse of fabric softener can make towels less absorbent.) If you do use fabric softener, don't use it every time you wash.

White vinegar makes a good fabric softener, especially in 100-percent polyester garments that can be stained by regular fabric softener. Add 1/2 cup of vinegar to the rinse water when you do laundry. It will cut detergent residue and leave clothes smelling fresh.

Safe Scrubbing Powder

Plain baking soda makes a good, safe scouring powder for surfaces including Formica, Plexiglas and fiberglass. Just dampen a cloth or sponge, dip it in dry baking soda and scrub away. It won't scratch the surface but provides enough abrasion to dislodge grime.

Cleaning Painted Walls and Ceramic Tiles

Combine 1/2 cup of vinegar, 1 cup of clear ammonia, 1/4 cup of baking soda and a gallon of water. Apply with a sponge, let soak a few minutes and rinse with clear water. Caution: Wear rubber gloves and work in a well-ventilated area when using this powerful solution.

Window Cleaners

Using a squeegee is the fastest and easiest way to clean large windows. Just a few drops of liquid dishwashing detergent in a bucket of water is all you need, or try a home brew of 1/2 cup of vinegar or 1/3 cup of clear ammonia in a gallon of water.

If you prefer to wipe windows dry, polish them with a lint-free cloth or paper towels. Newspaper leaves an ink residue that dulls the shine of the glass.

For bathroom mirrors that have a film, use equal parts rubbing alcohol and water. Full-strength rubbing alcohol works well to clean the inside of car windshields. It cuts the film that can cause windshields to fog.

Treated Dust Rag

Place an old, but clean, cotton T-shirt in a glass jar, add 2 tbsps. of furniture polish, seal the jar and let it sit overnight.

The oil will spread throughout the cloth and be just enough to pick up dust without leaving an oily residue. Put the cloth back in the jar after each use. When it get dirty, wash it and repeat the oiling process.

Furniture Polish

For homemade furniture polish as good as any bought at the store, add 1/2 tsp. light olive oil to 1/4 cup white vinegar and enough water to fill a 1-quart container.

A standard recipe for a wood restorer is equal parts of boiled linseed oil (make sure it says "boiled" on the label), turpentine and white vinegar. shake well. Apply with a soft, clean cloth. Wipe completely dry and then wipe again with another clean cloth. Always wear rubber gloves and make sure the work area is well ventilated.

Mineral Deposits

Lime and calcium buildups from hard water can be softened by acids such as lemon juice or vinegar. Soak the area with the full-strength acid and let it sit. then scrub with a white, nylon scrub pad. Professionals use phosphoric acid mineral-scale removers, which are available at janitorial supply stores.

Prewash Stain Treatment Spray

Put equal parts liquid dishwashing soap, ammonia and water in a spray bottle. Spray on stain immediately before washing. Don't allow the solution to stay on clothes more than a minute or so.



 
Stuart News - HOME & GARDEN - April 21, 2001 -
Ask Martha Stewart

Spring to it ­ cleaning, that is

Spring is officially upon us. Maybe you're like many people and simply have been so caught up with your daily schedule that you've let some household chores fall by the wayside. Whatever the case, now is a great time to refresh your surroundings both inside and out. Use the following spring-cleaning checklist as a guide, and nothing will be forgotten.

INDOORS

Freshen rugs and carpeting. Start by giving your vacuum cleaner a tune-up: Cut away threads from the rotating beater, replace the motor belt if stretched and replace the bag. Hang area rugs on a clothesline to air them out, and beat them with a tennis racket to remove dust. Some rugs can be machine-washed; check the manufacturer's care instructions.

Wash and wax floors. Wash vinyl or linoleum floors with warm water and mild detergent. Dry thoroughly, and seal with a water-based floor polish; buff. For urethane-coated wood floors, wash with a mop wrung of excess water, then buff. For waxed wood floors, vacuum, strip off old wax, then reseal with liquid or paste wax.

Flip mattresses and cushions. Vacuum mattresses and box springs. If possible, air mattresses outdoors. Rotate and flip mattresses to promote even wear. Sofa and chair cushions should also be flipped if their design and construction allow.

Clean refrigerator. Sort through contents, discarding any item that has reached its expiration date. Unplug the machine, storing food in a cooler to keep it fresh. Wash and deodorize the refrigerator from top to bottom with soapy water and baking soda about 4 tablespoons of soda per quart of water is adequate. Clean the gaskets on the doors with a diluted bleach solution: Mix a gallon of soapy water with 3/4 cup bleach.

Replace filters. Vacuum and clean grates (and coils or condensers) on furnaces, refrigerators, stoves and air conditioners. Clean or replace filters in furnaces and air conditioners.

Wash windows. Use a soft brush or vacuum attachment to remove dust, cobwebs and dirt. Wash windows inside and out with a squeegee, using a rag to absorb excess water. Choose a cloudy day the sun's heat can dry windows too fast, creating streaks.

Clean curtains. Remove dust from shades and curtains with a brush or upholstery vacuum attachment, on a low-suction setting. If window treatments look dingy, take them down and either hand-wash or dry clean, depending on care instructions.

Sort through wardrobes and reorganize linen closet. Separate clothes into piles: off-season, giveaway, dry cleaning, tailoring and so on. Make sure clothing and bedding are clean (since dirt attracts moths and other pests) and mended before returning to the closet or storing. Fabric garment bags which allow air to circulate will keep stored clothing dust-free.

Tablecloths should be rolled around cardboard tubes rather than folded, so the fabric will not weaken along the creases.

Check safety equipment. Test smoke detectors, replacing any batteries older than 6 months. Check batteries in carbon-monoxide detectors and flashlights. Inspect pressure gauges on fire extinguishers.

 

OUTDOORS

Survey the yard. Send lawn mower and leaf blower out for annual service.

Remove fallen branches, stones and other debris from the yard. Tree limbs that overhang buildings should be trimmed, cut down or secured by cables.

Remove mulch from beds planted with bulbs. Check fences, steps and pathways for disrepair.

Inspect chimneys. If you didn't do so in the fall, schedule an appointment with a certified chimney sweep to inspect the structure and clear it of soot and creosote. Chimneys should be professionally inspected once a year and cleaned after two cords of wood have been burned.

Refresh garden furniture. Clean, repair or replace cushions and/or webbing, as needed. Remove rust from frames by scrubbing with a wire brush; then smooth the exposed metal with steel wool, wipe with a clean cloth and brush on rustproof primer. Scrub umbrellas with a mild bleach solution to eliminate mildew.

Exchange storm windows and screens. Remove storm windows. Replace broken panes, recaulk windows and repaint frames before storing. Check screens for holes, and reweave patches with tweezers or replace before installing.

Examine gutters. Make sure that all sections are still connected and that the downspouts are in place. Clear gutters of leaves and debris. To check that downspouts are unobstructed, run a stream of water through them with a hose.

Prepare gas grill. Clean all pipes and openings, including burner ports and manifold, with pipe cleaners or a narrow bottle brush. Replace lava rocks. Burn off any food buildup on grates. Fill propane tank, and stock up on specialty woods.

Questions should be addressed to Martha Stewart, care of The New York Times Syndication Sales Corp., 122 E. 42nd St., New York, N.Y. 10168. Questions may also be sent by electronic mail to stewart@marthastewart.com. Include your name and daytime telephone number. Questions of general interest will be answered in this column; unpublished letters cannot be answered individually. For more information, visit www.marthastewart.com.

 


  
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